2Wheeltips

We all know how much motorcycle gear costs. Once something gets labeled "for motorcycling", the price jumps 3-fold. For example, a pair of decent snowmobile gloves cost $35.00. A decent pair of winter motorcycle gloves will cost you over $100.00. Which pair do you think will keep your hands the warmest and have the most features?

Since I plan to do some polar bear rides this year, I decided to upgrade my riding boots. I looked around in the dealerships and and it seems they are all over $200.00! And they did not look or feel warm.

Determined not to spend that type of cash, I went down to the local department store to see what they have. I found the North Face McMurdo boot for half the cost. Long story short, these boots are extremely warm, waterproof, come up way over the ankle and cost half as much as the "motorcycle boots" I saw earlier. They have a women's version too.

If you are in the market for some decent winter "motorcycle boots", definitely check them out.

http://www.thenorthface.com/catalog/sc-gear/mens-mcmurdo-boot.html?parent_category_rn=&cm_vc=Search

We have signed up for a service called "Aardvark" where people can post questions to random knowledgeable people and get answers. Of course we signed up to receive motorcycle-related questions. Here is the lastest one:

"If you're on a motorcycle and getting cold, is it better to slow down and be in the cold for longer, or speed up a little (within safe limits) and accept the increased wind chill factor? That is, does the increased wind chill offset the reduced travel time by being disproportionately cold?"

I already answered it, but would like to know what those on 2wheeltips have to say about this. Respond in the comments section when you get a chance.

Tony

Unless you are a die hard rider or live in a warm climate, you probably have put your bike up for the winter. Check out these videos on tips for winter storage.

Winterizing Your Bike

Fuel Stabilizers

One other thing. If you have powered accessories such as lights & alarms that constantly draw power from the battery, you may want to disconnect them before you store your bike. If you don't, you will have a dead battery in the spring (unless your bike is on a battery tender)

Let us know what you think.

After 2 weeks of nasty weather in the northeast, we finally got a dry "warm" day. It was 49F.....still a bit cold but much better than snow, ice and 19F days had over the past few days.
So....I decided to take the bike out for a quick spin.  It was fun getting out but I notice a few things that I want to share here about winter riding:

Cold Tires & Cold Roads
It took quite a few miles, almost 10 miles, for the tires to warm up to the point where I felt comfortable dipping the bike quickly through curves.  I could feel the bike sliding around even on the mildest of curves and lane changes. At times it felt like I was riding on a wet road. Advice......take it nice and slow!!

Exposed Skin & Not Enough Clothing
Since it was "warm" I figured I could get away with wearing jeans and not riding pants. The wind was flapping under my pants and against my skin. Halfway through the ride, I got cold and figured I would just put on my riding pants and that would solve it. Wrong!! Once I got cold, I stayed cold. It got unbearable and I had to stop at a friends house to warm up. Advice.....once you get cold you are done. If you over dress, you can always take some off.

Lots of motorcycle shops profit every spring from motorcycle owners' failure to properly prepare their machines for a season of inactivity so don’t be one of the suckers. This is the must-know information. All fat has been trimmed away. Misguided notions and myths have been omitted for brevity.

1. Stabilize the fuel
   1. Modern unleaded fuel only has a shelf life of 3-4 weeks before it begins to deteriorate.
   2. Empty gas tanks will draw moisture and will rust while sitting. Make sure the tank is filled up and treated with a fuel stabilizer.
   3. Add the recommended amount of fuel stabilizer (Sta-Bil or Seafoam; make sure you follow recommended dosage for your tank exactly) to a full tank of fuel, then run the engine for at least 15 minutes to work the stabilized fuel throughout the engine.
   4. If you are riding to a gas station to fill the tank, put the stabilzer in before you add gas. The turbulence of the incoming fuel and the ride home will help to mix it.

1. Change your oil
   1. Residual fuel and contaminants in the oil can oxidize during prolonged storage or inactivity. Changing your oil now removes all the sludge and dirt that would otherwise start to deteriorate. In addition, changing oil now guarantees fresh lubrication when it comes time to remove the bike from storage.
   2. Use a quality oil that you would normally drive with. I recommend synthetics which will survive much longer into next year's riding season.
   3. Run the engine a few minutes to disburse the oil through the engine.

1. Prepare the Battery
   1. Lead-acid batteries should be kept under a constant charge in order to prolong their life.
   2. Attach a Battery Tender that won't overcharge your battery. A trickle charger may be used but must not be run for more than a half-hour each day. This could be accomplished using an appliance timer.
   3. If your motorcycle will be stored where freezing temperatures are likely, remove the battery from the bike and place in a warm dry place. The battery should be kept charged regardless.

1. Clean and Lubricate
   1. Dirt, sand, and road salts will begin to corrode and damage metal surfaces if left during storage. Give your bike a good cleaning before putting her to sleep for the winter.
   2. Lubricate all moving parts such as cables and use a metal protectant spray on the underside of the frame and drivetrain. This will combat any rust on areas exposed from pitting or scratches.
   3. NEVER use WD-40 on your motorcycle

1. Check your Tires
   1. Make sure your tires are properly inflated. If you have a compressor then deflate your tires first to expel any moisture, then inflate with clean compressed air. You should repeat this step before riding again in the spring.
   2. If possible, elevate your motorcycle so both tires are not under load. This is especially important if the bike will be stored in freezing conditions. Make sure your bike is secure. Motorcycle lifts with bottle jacks have been known to fail when left under prolonged load.

1. Cover your motorcycle
   1. Even when stored inside, your bike should be covered while stored. Use a cover that can breath and not a plastic tarp.
   2. Moisture should not be allowed to become trapped under the cover on your bike's metal surfaces.
   3. If your storage is in a barn or similar place, cover the exhaust's to prevent any unwanted creatures from making a winter den. Place plastic bags over the intake to keep moisture out.

There are a hundred more suggestions out there (filling the tires with nitrogen, etc.), but for the most part these steps will ensure your investment gets a safe winter's rest. Once stored, resist the temptation of periodically starting the engine, or at least until you are ready to drain the stabilized fuel and start riding again.