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Tire Replacement

Sun, Jan 24 2010 02:32pm EST 1
Cuchulainn
Cuchulainn
9 Posts
Hello. I have a question regarding tire replacement. I purchased my bike used with 2300 and some change. It would seem as though the previous owner must have stored it outside in our Colorado sun as the tires, front in particular seem to have some UV damage on the sidewalls. The front has some pretty good cracks.

I brought it to the dealers attention and they stated that the front tire was particularly bad and probably unsafe and suggested replacing it. The rear tire, they felt was OK and suggested keeping that one.

I wanted to get some opinions on whether tires should always be replaced in sets? Or if the tire and tread are fine on the rear tire, should I do as the dealer suggests and replace the front only?

Thanks in advance for any advice!
Sun, Jan 24 2010 08:06pm EST 2
Carol
Carol
47 Posts

Cuchulainn....just my 2 cents, of course...but just having attended the International Motorcycle Show at the Javits Center in New York City, and having talked to several tire specialists, I am now of the opinion that there is a lot of damage that cannot be seen by the naked eye...and if your bike has one tire that is clearly "shot", I would take the safe road and replace both tires at the same time. Yes, it will cost you more but I think the safety and peace of mind you get from replacing both tires at the same time will be well worth it! Like I said...just my 2 cents, but safety is top on my list and it sounds like both tires may need replacement.
Carol

Sun, Jan 24 2010 10:59pm EST 3
Cuchulainn
Cuchulainn
9 Posts
Carol,

Thanks for the reply. It isn't the answer I wanted to hear for sure, but not an answer that was unexpected. I know that some (apparently not all) tire manufacturers recommend tires to be replaced in pairs. There seems to be some evidence that replacing only the front tire, when the rear is worn can cause instability or at a minimum reduce the life of the front tire.

I am not happy about it as they are charging me for the tires despite selling it with at least one tire near failing. I told them to call me first thing on Tuesday morning. I realize I purchased the bike including an "as is" warranty. It was my first bike and I didn't know better about checking tires at the time. But I do feel they should have performed a multi-point inspection on the bike prior to the sale and that this should have been caught and rectified. They basically sent a novice rider down the road on a tire that the service manager said "If it were my bike I wouldn't feel safe riding on it." So why would they sell it like that? I only have 250 miles riding experience, and only had about 40 on it when I first brought it up to them in late December. I just couldn't get it over there between schedule and weather until Saturday.

Of course I have never had the experience breaking in a new set of tires either. If I understand that it takes at least 50 miles? And that the first 10 or so you have to be extremely careful?
Mon, Jan 25 2010 10:23am EST 4
mrlmd
mrlmd
45 Posts
How old is the bike, or more importantly, how old are the tires? There's a manufacturer's date stamp in a little rectangular box on the sidewall of all tires - the month and year of manufacture.
See the video I posted on this site here:
www.2wheeltips.com/members/profile/80/blog-view/tire-age-hazard-video-from-abc-news_167.html

Tires that are say 6 years old or more tend to get brittle and may be unsafe as the rubber dries out and they lose some of their grip on the road. The "dry rot" cracks in the sidewall may or may not be that dangerous depending on size and position, but it gives you an indication of deterioration of the tire, from age, from UV exposure, from water, etc. Most bike tires will not be subject to sudden blowout or tread separation, the just lose grip. New tires should be babied for about 100 miles to get the tread roughed up a little and get the tire release compound off the tread. Never polish tires with armorall or similar, especially on the tread, and watch for oil leaks under the bike which can be in the reat tire track.
If the rear tire is only a few years old and otherwise in good condition, it does not have to be changed. Also it is not mandatory that tires come in a matched set, you can mix tires from different manufacturers with no problems. Tires wear differently front and rear. just like brakes, and they only have to be replaced when they are worn, not neccessary to replace them both at the same time. It will not affect bike handling or safety if you only have to replace the front tire, unless ther rear is 6-7 years old and you want to do it anyway because of it's age.
By the way, if you bought that bike from a dealer, even if it came no warranty as is, he should have pointed out to you the bad tire and advised how much it would cost for him to replace it. First, for your safety, instead of him just wanting to make a sale, and second, if you knew that. maybe it would have helped to negotiate a better price, either for the bike or the tire replacement.
Mon, Jan 25 2010 04:07pm EST 5
Cuchulainn
Cuchulainn
9 Posts
Mrlmd, Thanks so much for the reply! The bike itself is a 2007. The tires have a date stamp of 2006. I am not sure of the month and they currently have the bike. The mileage on the bike and tires (assuming they are original) is around 2,450. The front tire is in far worse shape than the rear. Cracks along the sidewall are plentiful and deep. This is particularly true of the righthand side of the tire. I assume because it is angled upward toward the sun and more exposed to the elements. The comments by the service manager.. and I am paraphrasing a little, went something like. "Well I looked at the left hand side first and thought it was bad but maybe passable, and then I looked at the right hand side and 'oh boy.' You need a new front tire. If it were my bike I would definitely not feel safe riding on that tire." He did feel the rear was okay and the expected wear/cracking that a tire of that age experiences our environment. So perhaps a 3 year old tire with 2,450 miles is okay? The front tire is around $120 (Metzler Lasertec is the stock front and rear) and new tube around $30 + labor (maybe?). I got home too late on Saturday to talk to them so put a message in to them. I was pretty peeved when I called the service manager and left a message. Not so much regarding the cost of the tire, but more so because they obviously did not do any sort of multi-point inspection on the bike. Or, if they did, decided not to mention a potential hazard. Instead they send a novice rider (and they knew I had just passed the MSF) down the road on a potentially dangerous tire. The price would not have been a deal breaker. I could have absorbed it, they could have absorbed it or they could have met me half way. Say selling the tire at dealer cost and no charge for install. It would have cost them what? 15 minutes or so of labor and they would have a much happier customer today. I appreciate the alternate view on whether I need to replace the rear or not. Obviously it would be a big savings for me if I don't need to. I was already having them put on a center stand and grab rail, so I really didn't need the additional cost of the front tire let alone the pair. Thanks!
How old is the bike, or more importantly, how old are the tires? There's a manufacturer's date stamp in a little rectangular box on the sidewall of all tires - the month and year of manufacture.
Mon, Jan 25 2010 04:33pm EST 6
Cuchulainn
Cuchulainn
9 Posts
My apologies for the above being all run together. I was having some issue with the quoted area, so I went to the HTML editor. I had all the above broken down into separate paragraphs, but when I posted it just put it all together in one block. I am not sure where it all went wrong :)
Mon, Jan 25 2010 08:25pm EST 7
mrlmd
mrlmd
45 Posts
I don't know what kind of bike you have or what size tires, but you do not have to go with OEM tires, there are many different brands from many different sources, at quite varying prices that I'm sure will fit your bike. Many tires do not cost anywhere near $120 and are quite good and highly recommended - like Cheng Shins for instance. You can ask the dealer to get whatever you want, you can order them online usually for much less than stealer (dealer) prices, and you can have an independent motorcycle shop put them on, usually at much less expense than at the dealer. Do a Google search for user groups for your bike, see what others have been using and get other recommendations besides from the dealer. He has already told you how good he is by selling you a bike that already needs further expense, and he just let you take it out the door with no consideration for you at all.
Without the sun damage and cracking, a front tire may last 6,000miles +. a rear one maybe twice as long, if you don't ride around like a madman.
Get a cover for your bike to keep it out of the sun and avoid that kind of UV damage. Again, you don't have to spend a lot of money, go to JCWhitney, get a cover for $20-30, nothing fancy but it works. I have one for two years now and it's still in good shape and cheap enough. They also have tires at pretty good prices, as only one of many stores, and if you can find your size for your front wheel, you may save a bundle by having someone else mount it.
Mon, Jan 25 2010 10:39pm EST 8
Cuchulainn
Cuchulainn
9 Posts
mrlmd,

Thanks again for another reply. The bike I have is an '07 Triumph Bonneville. Apparently there were two different OEM tires used for that bike. One was the Metzler Lasertec. The other I believe was a Dunlop.

I have spent some time reading the Triumph Rat.net and newbonneville forums. The preferred tire seems to be the Avon Roadrider. They are not any cheaper, I am OK with that if they are worth the price. Another popular tire seems to be the Continental Road Attack, but again about the same price.

I am not familiar with Cheng Shin, but I see JC Whitney has the C906 100/90H16 for about $77 with shipping.

The bike is kept garaged and covered. Not a heated garage per se, but it never drops below freezing either, even in sub-zero temps. I just can't speak for where the previous owner kept it or how it was stored. I purchased it with 2,300 and some change on it, and have only had for about 1.5 months with limited winter riding.

I purchased some cheap cover from Costco. A Coverking for $29.99. It is nothing special, not heavy duty or waterproof, but water resistant and reflective.

I appreciate all the advice. I will talk to them tomorrow and see what options they offer. If they are difficult about it I will pick it up and take it elsewhere. I found a place near my home that has some sale prices on IRC Durotour RS-310 tires. Know anything about them?
Tue, Jan 26 2010 10:24am EST 9
mrlmd
mrlmd
45 Posts
I don't know about them, but Cheng Shins are good tires, and if it fits, the recommended size, and you can save $50, why not? And if the dealer won't mount and balance it for you for $25-35, go to an independent shop for that. If it is a tubed tire (spoked wheel), you should also buy a new tube, and maybe rim strips. If it's tubeless, you don't need those.
Tue, Jan 26 2010 11:33pm EST 10
Cuchulainn
Cuchulainn
9 Posts

Well,


I had a chat with them today. They are willing to reduce the cost of the tire by 25% and waive some labor costs. That brings the cost much more inline with the Cheng Shin and without the labor charges a better deal overall. So, I think I will go ahead with their offer.

I asked them again about the rear tire. They examined it again and they state they are confident it is in good shape. There appears to be a faulty valve on the front tire.

As I had purchases the bike used, their guess was that it was likely stored by the previous owner for a period of time. Their guess is that the front tire likely went flat during that storage. They feel that is why it is in particularly bad shape in certain areas of the left side. It sounds logical enough I guess.

The tire is a tubed tire. I was thinking about having the spokes sealed at some point. There is a company in town called Woody's Wheel Works. Sealing the Rims for tubeless tires is one of the services they offer along with lacing, superlacing, truing, etc.

Do you happen to know anything about rim sealing and how reliable it is? The charge is $70 per wheel.
Wed, Jan 27 2010 10:08am EST 11
mrlmd
mrlmd
45 Posts
It's much cheaper to get a new tube and rim strips when you replace the tire. Not only would I be wary of how well all the spokes are sealed, but the rim itself may have a different bead on it compared to a rim designed for a tubeless tire, and it may not seal well along there. The tubeless tire may not fit that wheel, so you have to check that out too. I wouldn't do it, the tubed tires work very well.
I like tubeless wheels for one other reason - no spokes to clean, no rust to try and remove from the spokes.
Wed, Jan 27 2010 10:08pm EST 12
Cuchulainn
Cuchulainn
9 Posts
Thanks for the advice on that. I had gotten the idea from a blurb on Motorcycle Cruiser and later found out from a post on one of the Triumph forums that Woody's Wheel Works near me does this service.
http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/tubeless_tire_seal/index.html

I had come accross that blurb after reading a maintenance post that made the claim that Tube-type tires are somewhat more dangerous that a Tubeless tire. The reasons states were that they tend to deflate more quickly after a puncture and they do not seat as securely, so there is a greater chance of that the tire will separate from the bead and cause loss of control.

I am guessing that there is some truth to that, but greater is a relative term. I was curious as to how common a problem it *really* is when I came upon the Motorcycle Cruiser blurb.
Thu, Jan 28 2010 09:57am EST 13
mrlmd
mrlmd
45 Posts
While that may be a theoretical advantage, a sudden blowout on a motorcycle tire is a very, very rare event, probably much rarer than riding into a pothole or something else and having to true up a wheel by adjusting or replacing spokes. If you had to do that, you'd need the wheel sealed again. And the weight advantage of removing the tube and putting in the sealer? What are you talking about, maybe less than a quarter of a pound? How much does a tube weigh and how much does your weight vary every time you get on the bike? That's not even worth considering.
While it is easier to temporarily repair (with a plug) a deflated tubeless tire if there is a nail in it, compared to a tubed tire, while on the road, for most of us this is also not a problem to get the tire and new tube repaired/replaced. If it was me, I would just get a new tire and a new tube and replace your UV damaged front tire. While the idea of sealing the rim may appeal to some, it doesn't to me, I don't think the advantages outweigh the cost or the supposed increased safety factor, I think it's a lot of hype and marketing, just my opinion. And there are a lot of other things for your bike and your safety you can spend your money on besides sealing your rim - like an engine/crash guard, windshield, armored jacket/pants, headlight/brakelight modulator, loud air horn,etc,etc, the list goes on and on.

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